Bermejales Lake and Alhama de Granada

Bermejales Lake and Alhama de Granada: (45 minutes by car):

Bermajales Lake is in a very tranquil area of outstanding natural beauty and makes a perfect spot for a quiet picnic before the 15 minute drive to visit the historic spa town of Alhama de Granada. Alhama de Granada is a pretty town sitting at the top of a ravine, which gives impressive views down into the gorge, where the Rio Alhama weaves heard but unseen. Alhama de Granada is famous for is spa waters, hot springs and thermal baths and you can bathe here, if you have the time. The original name of the town – “al hamma” means “baths” in Arabic and there are many remaining Arab baths here. The town also has several fine churches built after the Catholic Monarchs re-conquered the area of Alhama de Granada in 1482, which was a very significant loss to the Moorsish rulers of Granada.

Getting there: The easiest and best route to Bermejales Lake is a lovely drive through country roads on the flat land below Illora. Leave Illora on the road towards Obeilar and drive through this small satellite town of Illora. Immediately after leaving Obeilar, there is a turning to the right towards Escoznar, which takes you down to flat, straight roads – always a delight in this part of Spain ! Drive on the main road through Escosnar and on through Valderrubio and Fuente Vacqueros. You may want to pause here – Fuente Vacqueros was the birthplace of the 20th century poet Federico Garcia Lorca, a staunch and outspoken opponent of the Franco regime who was executed for his expressed views. Granada airport was named after Federico Garcia Lorca. Fuente Vacqueros has a museum dedicated to him and you can visit Federico Garcia Lorca’s birthplace, just around the corner from the museum.

After Fuente Vacqueros, head to Chauchina – another delightful and prosperous but larger town. Chauchina presents a challenge in giving directions but so long as you follow signs towards the A-92 and Granada (not Malaga) you will be fine. The road out of Chauchina goes over the A-92 Malaga-Sevilla motorway and you will see Granada airport clearly in view. Follow the road on to Romilla la Nueva and Chimeneas. This road starts to rise and fall more and signals the end of the plateau you have been driving on. From Chimeneas, follow the signs to Acula and Ventas de Huelma. At Ventas de Huelma, turn right onto the A-338, signposted to Agron and Embalse de los Bermejales (Bermejales Lake). Bermejales has been very, very tranquil but is starting to cater well now for visitors to this best kept secret beauty spot in Andalucia. You can pause at cafes as you come to Bermejales or you may prefer to do as we did as cross the dam across the lake which is immediately followed by extensive areas suitable for off-road picnics and for walking by the lakeside.

To continue on to Alhama de Granada, simply pick up the A-338 again and follow the road, which weaves around and up and down along one-time narrow mountain tracks and meets the A-402 to take you into Alhama de Granada. You drive into Alhama de Granada at the lowest point but follow the road up to the centre and there is ample parking in the main square, from where it is best to walk around the clearly signposted sights. A visit to the Arab Quarter is also strongly recommended.

For a change of route on the return trip, follow the main road back out of Alhama de Granada the same way you came in, climb the hill and take the A-402 towards Santa Cruz del Commercio, Valenzuela and Buena Vista to the town of Moraleda de Zafoyona. This part of the A-402 is almost entirely newly widened and makes for a fast route back to the A-92. At the A-92, you may prefer to take the motorway back to Chauchina and then reverse the route you followed to there, or simply continue on what becomes the A-335, signposted towards Montefrio. This is the fastest and most direct route but not for the cautious driver. The road is old, pot holed and makes sharp turns in the first section between Moraleda de Zafoyona and Bracana. As you come to Bracana, another pretty little town, you have the choice of making a short tour of the town on simply staying on the road, which by-passes Bracana and takes you on to Tocon. At Tocon – terminus of the bus from Granada that serves Illora – follow the sign to Alomartes, drive through Alomartes and, after 4 kilometres, you will be back in Illora.