Vueltas en Andalusia

Driving to and from Illora:

On most trips it is likely that you will be driving in the general direction of Granada, at least initially. We advise driving out of Illora on the new road from the San Rogelio statue in the centre of Illora to the A432 (Cordoba road). This road is very new and easy to drive. Once you reach the A432, turn right towards Pinos Puente and Granada. This route is slightly longer than the alternative but also significantly faster and offers better views.

When returning to Illora from Pinos Puente, drive straight through the town, do not take the right hand turn but continue driving on the A432 in the direction of Cordoba until you pass through Ventas de Algarra. Immediately after this village, you will see the sign for the left turn onto the new road to Illora.

Salobrena (1 hour by car)

Although Malaga is better known to the British and Germans, Salobrena is a charming white painted hilltop town with an equally good beach, for swimming and simply stretching out under the sun that is more popular with the Spanish. The drive to Salobrena is part of the experience – the excellent road takes you across deep valleys and gorges and through mountain passes, with the view on each turn of the road more breathtaking than the last – especially around the area of Lecrin.

In Salobrena, there is a challenging but rewarding climb up steps from the beach area to the delightful old church and, eventually, to the Moorish castle – previously used as a fort, as a weekend retreat for the Granada based Moorish rulers and as a prison for deposed Sultans. Entrance to the castle and the associated town museum costs just 2.80 per person and you will see magnificent views of the town, the bay and the surrounding mountains, with the Sierra Nevada in the background. If you are here in Spring or Summer, you will enjoy the beautiful town displays of Bouganvillia – mostly in a deep red colour that really shows the delights of the climbing plant against the white walls of the houses.

Getting there: Drive from Illora on the A432 through Pinos Puente and towards Granada. Join the E-902 / A44 towards Motril and simply stay on this superb road, which will initially take you past Granada, on your left, past the Sierra Nevada, with yet more dramatic views than you have seen before, and on south past Padul, Lecrin, the lake and dam as Beznar and Lanjaron - the town the favoured local spring water from the Sierra Nevada is named after. The E902 meets the E15 outside Motril and you will see Salobrena in the distance. The route to the town is clearly sign posted from here. You will certainly want to come back by the same route to appreciate the breathtaking views once more.

Bermejales Lake and Alhama de Granada: (45 minutes by car):

Bermajales Lake is in a very tranquil area of outstanding natural beauty and makes a perfect spot for a quiet picnic before the 15 minute drive to visit the historic spa town of Alhama de Granada. Alhama de Granada is a pretty town sitting at the top of a ravine, which gives impressive views down into the gorge, where the Rio Alhama weaves heard but unseen. Alhama de Granada is famous for is spa waters, hot springs and thermal baths and you can bathe here, if you have the time. The original name of the town – “al hamma” means “baths” in Arabic and there are many remaining Arab baths here. The town also has several fine churches built after the Catholic Monarchs re-conquered the area in 1482, which was a very significant loss to the Moorsish rulers of Granada.

Getting there: The easiest and best route to Bermejales Lake is a lovely drive through country roads on the flat land below Illora. Leave Illora on the road towards Obeilar and drive through this small satellite town of Illora. Immediately after leaving Obeilar, there is a turning to the right towards Escoznar, which takes you down to flat, straight roads – always a delight in this part of Spain ! Drive on the main road through Escosnar and on through Valderrubio and Fuente Vacqueros. You may want to pause here – Fuente Vacqueros was the birthplace of the 20th century poet Federico Garcia Lorca, a staunch and outspoken opponent of the Franco regime who was executed for his expressed views. Granada airport was named after Federico Garcia Lorca. Fuente Vacqueros has a museum dedicated to him and you can visit Federico Garcia Lorca’s birthplace, just around the corner from the museum.

After Fuente Vacqueros, head to Chauchina – another delightful and prosperous but larger town. Chauchina presents a challenge in giving directions but so long as you follow signs towards the A-92 and Granada (not Malaga) you will be fine. The road out of Chauchina goes over the A-92 Malaga-Sevilla motorway and you will see Granada airport clearly in view. Follow the road on to Romilla la Nueva and Chimeneas. This road starts to rise and fall more and signals the end of the plateau you have been driving on. From Chimeneas, follow the signs to Acula and Ventas de Huelma. At Ventas de Huelma, turn right onto the A-338, signposted to Agron and Embalse de los Bermejales (Bermejales Lake). Bermejales has been very, very tranquil but is starting to cater well now for visitors to this best kept secret beauty spot in Andalucia. You can pause at cafes as you come to Bermejales or you may prefer to do as we did as cross the dam across the lake which is immediately followed by extensive areas suitable for off-road picnics and for walking by the lakeside.

To continue on to Alhama de Granada, simply pick up the A-338 again and follow the road, which weaves around and up and down along one-time narrow mountain tracks and meets the A-402 to take you into Alhama de Granada. You drive into the town at the lowest point but follow the road up to the centre and there is ample parking in the main square, from where it is best to walk around the clearly signposted sights. A visit to the Arab Quarter is also strongly recommended.

For a change of route on the return trip, follow the main road back out of Alhama de Granada the same way you came in, climb the hill and take the A-402 towards Santa Cruz del Commercio, Valenzuela and Buena Vista to the town of Moraleda de Zafoyona. This part of the A-402 is almost entirely newly widened and makes for a fast route back to the A-92. At the A-92, you may prefer to take the motorway back to Chauchina and then reverse the route you followed to there, or simply continue on what becomes the A-335, signposted towards Montefrio. This is the fastest and most direct route but not for the cautious driver. The road is old, pot holed and makes sharp turns in the first section between Moraleda de Zafoyona and Bracana. As you come to Bracana, another pretty little town, you have the choice of making a short tour of the town on simply staying on the road, which by-passes Bracana and takes you on to Tocon. At Tocon – terminus of the bus from Granada that serves Illora – follow the sign to Alomartes, drive through Alomartes and, after 4 kilometres, you will be back in Illora

Cordoba (1.5 hours by car):

Alongside Granada, Cordoba is rich in the legacy of the Romans and, especially, the Moors and firmly recommended as a day trip during your stay in Illora. Cordoba, in its present style, was founded by the Romans who saw it as having strategic importance as the highest navigable point of the Guadalqivir River. It became a port of great importance and the centre for shipping Spanish olive oil, wine and wheat back to Rome itself. The roman bridge remains intact across the river and will be one of the first sights you see when you get to the centre of the city.

Cordoba became significantly more important when the Moors created the kingdom of El-Andalus and it remained the capital of the kingdom throughout the caliphate period. Successive Moorish rulers extended the Great Mosque – or “Mezqita” – time and time again creating a building of seemingly endless rows of red and cream arches that made the mosque one of the largest in Islam. Cordoba fell relatively early to the Christians – in 1236 - in the re-conquest. The Christians had established and maintained the habit of demolishing mosques and building churches on the site – as happened in Illora and Granada itself. In Cordoba, the Christians were so overcome by the beauty of the Mezqita that, uniquely, they kept it and simply built a cathedral within it. The Mezkita is a “must see” but you can readily fill an entire day in Cordoba – there is the Calahorra Fort, which guards the Roman bridge and the Alcazar – the fortress built by the Christians in 1328. Away from the impressive history of the place, Cordoba’s medieval quarter is a maze of narrow, winding streets, shaded flower-filled courtyards and picturesque city squares that make for a very enjoyable wander through the streets. In early May, householders in the quarter fill their patios with flowers in beautiful displays to compete for the city’s “most beautiful courtyard”.

Getting there: from the statue of San Rogelio in Illora drive out to the N-432 road from Granada. Driving to Cordoba could not be simpler, as this road will take you direct to the city. It is mostly a well maintained road with several sections of dual carriageway. Along the way, you will pass seemingly endless miles of olive groves, interrupted by lovely towns with churches or castles built on rocks and hills that are clearly visible from the road. It is tempting to leave the N-432 to look at each of these but you may find it better to come back another time as you will need a fully day to really enjoy all there is to see in Cordoba. As you reach the city, try to keep an eye on the landmarks you pass as these will help you leave again at the end of the day. There is a tricky one way system which can divert you off in the opposite direction to where you want to go. We experienced this ourselves ! Signage is there but the distractions of Cordoba left us headed in entirely the wrong direction. As you find your way out, simply head back to the N-432 and head back the way you came, taking the right turn towards Illora just before Ventas de Algarra.

This new page will be updated in the coming days and weeks with further suggested tours from Illora so please do come back and look. Next tour: a day trip to Granada with some tips on how to arrange your day.